Hinamatsuri

Akari o tsukemashou bonbori ni明かりをつけましょう　ぼんぼりに
Ohana o agemashou momo no hanaお花をあげましょう　桃の花
Go-nin bayashi no fue taiko五人ばやしの　笛太鼓
Kyo wa tanoshii Hinamatsuri今日は楽しいひな祭り

Let's light the lanterns
Let's set peach flowers
Five court musicians are playing flutes and drums
Today is a joyful Dolls' Festival.

"Ureshii Hinamatsuri (Happy Hinamatsuri)."

Today is Girl’s Day!

Hinamatsuri is a festival that dates back to the Heian Era (794-1185) and is a day to wish girl’s good health and a long life. From generation to generation, ornamental Hina dolls are placed on display and offered sweetened puffed rice (hina-arare), white sake (shirozake) and lozenge-shaped rice cakes (hishi-mochi) and cherry or peach blossoms.

Also known as “momo no sekku” (Peach Festival), on March 3rd, the dolls are placed on a display in homes, schools and business’ on a five or seven-tiered stand covered in red carpet. On the top tier are the Empress and Emperor. The costume of the Empress is called the "juuni-hitoe (twelve-layered ceremonial robe)." Even today the juuni-hitoe is worn at the Royal family's wedding ceremony; on the second tier are three ladies in waiting (sannin-kanjo); on the third shelf are five court musicians (gonin-bayashi); on the fourth tier are two government ministers (udaijin and sadaijin); and on the bottom shelf are three court officials. In some displays, court furniture and various small dishes of food are also represented.

The girl’s festival of today is far different from the original Hina Festival (which may have originated in China). Originally it is said that people transferred their own impurities and misfortunes to dolls and floated them away down the river. These dolls became associated with children’s dolls of the Heian Era and soon the ritual became known as Hina Festival. It wasn’t until the Mid-Edo Period that the dolls became displayed on shelves. A custom called "hina-okuri" or "nagashi-bina," in which people float paper dolls down rivers late on the afternoon of March 3rd still exists in various areas. The Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto celebrates the Nagashibina by floating these dolls between the Takano and Kamo Rivers to pray for the safety of children.

The displays range from lavish and expensive presentations to small and simpler sets. A traditional set of dolls can be very expensive. There are various grades for the sets, and some full sets cost more than a million yen! (But who can put a price on the preservation of the spirit or a children’s well-being!) Unless there is a set handed down from generation to generation, grandparents or parents buy them for a girl by her first Hinamatsuri.. However, since many Japanese live in small houses, royal couple version (with only the Emperor and the Empress dolls) is popular nowadays. There is a superstition that if you don't put away the hina-ningyo soon after the Festival, the daughter will get married late.

One of the most popular dishes associated with the festival are the pink, green and white diamond-shaped rice cakes called "Hishimochi." The pink (red) is for chasing evil spirits away, the white is for purity, and the green is for health.

“Kodomo no hi” or Boy’s Day (also known as Children’s Day) is celebrated on May 5th, and, alternatively at this time boy’s dolls are placed on display. Unlike the “purification” associated with Girl’s Day, however, Boy’s Day dolls represent strength and success in life. Carp, which are said to be able to swim up waterfall and are therefore associated with strengths, have also become associated with this day. One of the most beautiful displays across Japan is the sight of multicoloured carp flags are stretched across rivers and seemingly endless valleys.

New Photos

Photo Update:

- Christmas Cookies with the kids
- Christmas Dinner
- Thailand Trip

February Update

Spring is just around the corner and life is as busy as ever! In Japan, the end of the school year comes in March, rather than June, so this is one of the busiest times of the year for teachers and students as they draw this school year to an end and prepare for new students.

I already have big ambitions for this new school year ahead; especially as I am now familiar with everyone and with the system; and am slightly more confident in my language skills (I have also gotten really good at gesturing!)

The 3rd year students (Grade 9) are rearing to enter high school and leave their young frivolous Junior High days behind. Entering high school is a big deal here, maybe even more than back home. The students practice testing for months in order to complete “high school entrance exams.” Those who fail have the privilege of studying for months and months again in order to re-test. Each school, too, has its own form of examination, especially with regards to English. Students vying for one of the better English programs in the city have to work twice as hard.

Last week was the dreaded day. I have never seen students so wrought in all my life! I had an interesting experience though, last week, in attending the kids to the shrine where they prayed to the exam god for success.

“Is there an exam god?” I asked a teacher, surprised despite myself.
“Oh yes,” she answered. “There is a god for everything. The kitchen, the hallway; for spring and for summer; there is a god for testing and there are gods for babies. There are over 8 million Shinto gods. Because they are in everything we see, and in everything we do.”

The Shinto religion is the most prevalent in my region. There are festivals throughout the year celebrating harvest and planting, spring and fall, Coming-of-Age Day and Respect-for-the-aged Day. Unlike Christians who attend a regular service, however, it is more of a casual affair (or a really big Celebratory affair!), which is why I was so surprised when I joined my students at the shrine.

It was the first formal Shinto “service” I have been to. I watched somewhat shyly as they entered the grounds of the shrine, washed their hands (first the left and then the right) and then took a drink of purification (from their hand, which is important, because so many foreigners are unsure as to whether they should drink from the cup or not) and put salt on their tongue (also a step I have never observed before). They bowed once, hands together, and then found their seat for the conclave (boys on one side, girls on the other- which I am not sure is a regular assembly, or simply my school’s archaic notion of sexual segregation).

The ceremony was not long but it was really interesting to watch, despite my not understanding most of what was said (chanted rather). The students presented mocha (a heavy pounded rice bread) and sake and these were “mediated” over. After naming each of the students and asking for a “blessing” on their exams they were each tapped a string of bells and the ceremony was concluded.

It was quite a somber affair upon arrival, but as we left my students were back to their jovial selves, showing me things around the shrine and teaching me the names of everything.

It was one of the most profound experiences I have had here in Japan. It made me realize, more than anything, what a privilege it is to be involved in the school system, which is the epitome of opportunities for cultural experiences. After all, most of these kids are learning right alongside me!

It is in the midst of all this cultural immersion that I have been asked to stay on another year. It was a really difficult decision this year round. My feelings were that although I wanted to stay I have things to get started/finish back home. After weeks of restless nights and heaps of consultations from friends and family though I have decided to accept the contract for another year!

YEAH!! (this is where you are excited!!!)

I am looking forward to these next 18 months ahead. I feel as though this past year and a half have laid the groundwork for this next year, and know that I will be able to really enjoy the relationships and the experiences I have only just begun.

… Japan had a distinct way of getting hold of you and not letting go. It is a place that is easy to fall in love with, and because the Japanese are so friendly and welcoming, it makes it all the easier.

On hearing my news yesterday, my friend Jonathan said “you know, the longer you stay here, the harder it is to leave.” Which is ironic considering that Japan considers itself to be an “enclosed” society that does not easily accept foreigners (geijin).

I will return!!

I am actually really excited to use this time ahead to prepare for the rest of my Uni education for when I come back. After teaching in the elementary school and Junior High’s here in Japan, I am really set on working towards a Senior high/ Junior high Education degree in English with a concentration in Social Studies. (more cheering!!)


I will be returning to Victoria for three weeks in April/May for two weddings (Joel’s and Kristy’s… not to each other!), and hope to have the chance to catch up with everyone while I am there! I will send an email with dates as soon as possible.

So! Life is busy and exciting and looking to be a great year ahead!!

I will be attending the Akiba festival this weekend, and the following marks the beginning of rehearsals for the Japanese Musical, so more busy times ahead!! I will write again soon and try to keep my blog updates (sorry I have been so negligent!!!)

Ikebana: my new calling!

I've been looking forward to immersing myself in the sacred art of Ikebana for some time now.

I've heard everything from raving reviews to warnings against the tediousness of the art. Well, not the art form perse, so much as the ceremony that is inevitably intertwined in it.

Ikebana (flower arranging) is an art form that has been practiced in Japan for over 600 years. Though it originally started as a religious ritual (Buddhist offerings to the dead), it has developed over the years to become a form of (modern）art. Fundamentally, ikebana uses flowers as a medium for expressing nature and feelings. Though it was originally practiced by men, ikebana is now considered a more womanly art.

Deciding that a lesson in "womanly art" might be somewhat beneficial to me, I asked to tag along with Miyuki to the New Year's Ikebana class and she was more than happy to take me. Meeting twice a month, this particular group of women study and practice in the Shihoryu style, which incorporates grace with brightness. In all schools, importance is placed on combining the elements three elements are likened to the earth, the sky and man to form a (scalene) triangle.

Not unexpectedly, there was a bit of ceremony involved in the process. Miyuki and I were invited into Yamanaka sensei's washitsu (tatami room) where we were offered zenzai (a sweet red bean desert with mocha) and green tea. We chatted about the weather and about many "womanly" things and finally got down to business, arranging the flowers on newspaper and commencing the key part of the entire process: choosing a container.

While most arrangements are made in low, shallow containers, a great emphasis is more recently placed on the artist’s individual expression. Still, I humbly chose a small clay pot, leaving the enormous teal goblet to the more experienced Miyuki.

For New Years arrangements, pine is traditionally the focal point in the arrangement, but for ours we were given two Kara (Calla lilies), four agisai (hydrangea sprigs), two derufuriniumu (delphinium) sprigs and two large tani wa tari leaves (palm like leaves).

Once the flowers are set out you must first choose the most appealing hydrangea sprig, which will be the pieces largest point of reference. The sprig is then cut to an exact measurement: width (of container) x height x 2.


The sprig is placed on an angle in the center of the khaki (container) on a kenzan (metal oasis). (cut the flowers under water to ensure freshness!)


The next sprig is cut to half the first's length and placed on an angle, leaning back and away.


The third sprig is cut at 3/4 the original's height and is placed to the right of it, also at an enticing (okuyuki) angle .


The final sprig is cut to 1/4 and placed leaning towards the arranger at a sharp (kyakui) angle.


(this is all, by the way, very meditative, despite apparent rigidity)


Next, the Kala's are cut at two varying heights, approximately 2/3 the highest sprig and 1/2. They are places leaning forward, with the highest Kala displaying the largest blossom, and the second one opening towards the arranger. Their position is a bit ambiguous. From what I gather, it is more of an innately known position...


After the flowers come the foliage, which should be artistically arranged to frame and shelter the arrangement. A little twist in the leaves adds character.


Last comes the delphs, which are used as "filler." The arrangement should not look crowded and busy, so much as it should look full and spontaneous. In short, flowers artfully poised as symbolic and
illustrative expressions.

I sat before my finished work of art, smug and satisfied. The arrangement before me was everything I had ever dreamed it to be: elegant, expressive, naturally flowing, and (least of all) an expression of ME.

"Owarimashita," I cried triumphantly and moved aside for all to see.
Sensei pondered my arrangement for some time, gazing upon it respectfully before emitting a much humored "cute."

Cute? Cute!

I guess that is not such a bad thing.

It wasn't, at least, until she asked if she could move some pieces around to their correct position.

"Of course!" I answered, ever eager to learn. But then I watched with growing trepidation as she took one piece after the other until finally the arrangement was striped of its "cuteness" and created whole... and new...

sigh.

Though perhaps not the protégé that I thought I would be, this doesn't mean the end of my Ikebana career. I foresee great things in the near future in all things symbolically representing man, earth and sky. And if all else fails, I am beginning tea ceremony classes on Saturday with Aki...

Merry Christmas!

Hi all!

Thank you so much for the Christmas cards, packages, emails and wishes!

I am off to Thailand with Kalen until the 7th of January, so Happy New Year!

I have been a bit behind on my writing and photo update, but today I posted the most recent events, so I hope you enjoy! I know i did!!

Merry Christmas!

Talk to you in the New Year

Zoe chan


PHOTO EVENTS:
- Chobitto Film festival
- Murder mystery
- kagura play
- Kagawa Trip
- End of the Year work party
- Christmas dinner

Shikoku Conquered!

I’ve done it! I have conquered Shikoku Island!

I have climbed the highest mountain, swam in the furthest-reaching capes of Muroto and Ashizuri; I have sat through the longest ceremonies (the recent five hour Kagura play trumped the four hour Cultural Festival) and I have thwarted incrimination during the most severe enkai’s. Summer humidity, autumn winds, winter blizzards… well, winter… okay, just WINTER, and spring typhoons!! I have undergone it all and lived to tell about it.

But more than this! Yes, much more than all this (queue music), I have finally been to each and every of Shikoku Island’s FOUR prefectures: Kochi-ken, Ehime-ken, Tokoshima-ken and now, at long last, KAGAWA.

It has the same mildly satisfying effect as getting a free coffee with a filled up points card. Only… there was no free coffee.


Kagawa-ken lies at the most northeastern tip of Shikoku Island. Despite being the smallest prefecture on the island, it is definitely not a place to be passed over. And it was my destination for the long weekend. I set out on Thursday night, driving the precarious first stretch of route 439-- a road that virtually splits the Shikoku from east to west in a narrow meandering passage.

Arriving in Tokoshima four or so lonely hours later, I was greeted by friend (and fellow Canadian) Joel. You might remember him from such adventures as The-first-time-I-put-makeup-on-a-man or The-very-first-and-hopefully-last-time-I-exterminate-a-Murade-in-my-house. It all makes sense in context, is all I can say.

Joel recently moved to Tokoshima prefecture from Kochi Prefecture, and even though this was a slight betrayal on his part, the deeper Canadian spirit saw us merrily on our way to Kagawa for a truly spontaneous adventure.

Before arriving in Kagawa-ken’s capital, Takamatsu, we visited Ritsurin koen (park), constructed in the 1600’s. If you were only to see one picture of the park, it would be this one:


However, I have already made plans to return in the spring, as the Sakura blossoms are said to be unparalleled.

Takamatsu is one of the main transportation links to the “mainland”- the island of Honshu, so it boasts everything from a myriad of ferry terminals to a fairly fashionable train station. More than that was the trendy downtown shopping centre, which was more beautiful than beneficial, but nonetheless served up the best hamburger I have had since Red Robins.

Stuffed and raring to go, we set out for the legendary island of Shodo-Shima, known best for its monkeys and olives (the entities, not the dish). The hour-long ferry ride weaved through the islands surrounding Takamatsu and eerily reminded me of the route from Sidney to Vancouver: trees, ocean, mountainous islands, sandy shores, Japanese fisherman…

The similarities ended abruptly, however, as we drew into Shodo-Shima harbor and the immanent image of faux-Greece assaulted our eyes.
“I wonder,” we wondered, “if in Greece you would find a red and black torii rising out of the landscape?” It seemed unlikely, but we nonetheless appreciated Japan’s enthusiasm for all things Western and ersatz.

Winding out way through the island, we attempted to reach the summit of the island, but were thwarted by the ever-ambiguous road-sign/map phenomenon- which is to say that despite our superior road-sign and map reading skills, what should have taken half-an-hour ended up taking two. Delayed arrival time none withstanding, the sight of Shodo-Shima basking in the sunset was well worth the trouble to have come.

On Saturday I set out alone and headed to Shikoku-mura, about 5 km from Takamatsu. Situated at the base of Yashima Hill (292 meter high table-top plateau), the village is a collection of historical buildings from around Shikoku Island. I arrived early and spent nearly three hours wandering along the lonely trails between the buildings, completely lost in the magnificence and history of the collection. Of the thirty some odd buildings, I was impressed most by the lighthouse-keeper houses and the sugarcane refineries, both of which broke away from the traditional style of open Japanese wooden houses.

Leaving Shikoku-mura was like walking out of a movie theatre still dazed and enthralled by everything you have just seen. I spent the rest of the day in sort of mesmerized stupor, which made my trip to Naoshima (another small island off the coast of Tokoshima) all the more inspiring.

In addition to its beaches, Naoshima is most famous for its “collection” of art. The island boasts two art museums and the Benesse Art House Project.

I first caught the bus to Chichu museum—a quintessential modernist museum, which was built in 2004 and is already known worldwide. The original idea was to re-conceptualize the relationship between nature and art, so architects (including Tadao Ando) chopped off the top of a mountain (I am sure that the surrounding nature was not damaged in the process), poured in a labyrinth of cement tunnels and artistically enclosed spaces and VOILA! Chichu was born. The museum is host to four major works by Claude Monet and a permanent exhibitions that feature a play on light—natural and artificial—by Walter De Maria, James Turrell.

** A moment to reflect on modernism and postmodernism:
Putting my illustrious Honours Theory Course to good use, I decided that Chichu was in definite need of a break down (in theory not in reality) and thus compiled the following table for those interested in the often tedious distinctions between these two rebellious art movements:

modernism

- Function over form

- FIRST RULE: the meaning is more important than what the thing looks like.

- abstraction

- SECOND RULE: The point of the work is not to depict the object, but to focus on its internal nature. (ex. A piece of paper with blank spaces for answers)

- Is it ugly? Okay, so that is a bit unfair. Modernist art and modernist architecture differ completely. Still. If it is square and cement, you KNOW it is modernist.

- THIRD RULE: emphasis on function and efficiency. (Minimalism)

Decartes: trying to make philosophy scientific with reason and fact. Logic behind all philosophy. Modernism is not about creativity.
- Out with the old and in with the new.

- FORTH RULE: modernism is all about in keeping with the newest trends, tastes, and styles.

postmodernism

- Form over function

- FIRST RULE: what something looks like is much more important than its meaning. After all, meaning is subjective! don't revise!

- SECOND RULE: Postmodernism eradicates the boundaries between high (Da Vinci) and low (comics) forms of art, “disrupting conventions with collision, collage, and fragmentation.” Creativity and rejection of binaries

- THIRD RULE: postmodernism as a reaction to modernist paradox’s. There are no fixed meanings because there are no defining boundaries. Geometric or purely abstract shapes are no useful; instead postmodernists aim for pastiche and discontinuity. Work with what’s at hand (Andy Warhol soup cans)

Neitzche: irrational thought processes through the lens of rationality and holism. In otherwords, stop being such a square… literally.

- Reaction to the modernist mundane: pastiche art

- FORTH RULE:: take from the old and make it new. Postmodernism is about amalgamating art forms—old and new—so all forms of art come together to create something visually stimulating, unique, and original.


So, is Chichu modern or postmodern? On one hand it is encased in cement making it functional, and it is definitely in keeping with abstract art forms. On the other hand it kind of breaks away from expectations and does the whole disrupting conventions. In one room there are a series of gold triangular cylinders (is there a better word for that?) arranged in three’s throughout the room, which rises onto three levels. The space is naturally lit and in the centre is a black ball. They say that no one person ever sees the same sight, because the light is always projecting different shades onto the room. I guess the fact that they say that single handedly makes it a modernist art work… yup… modernist… Function over Form.


That said, if I even began to describe the impact of Chichu I would be quenching the modernist dream. What I can say is this: no person can experience this museum in the same way, and no one can describe it in adequate terms. Ultimately, the impact resides in the feeling that the space gives you, rather than ““the skill and technique involved in producing visual representations.”

Sigh… oh you modernists… I not sure of anything anymore…

Moving on to more tangible and explicable works of art, I headed down to the Art House Project. In 1998 several old houses were given over to artists and remodeled into public exhibitions. Many of the houses remain traditional on the outside, while others resemble something akin to Pippy-Longstocking’s humble abode.

Unfortunately, the rice harvest festival taking place in the small town meant a series of unconquerable line-ups to get into the individual projects. Instead I wandered aimlessly though the village and appreciated the simple and unparallel beauty of everyday Japanese architecture: characteristically modernist… in case you were wondering; except for the stuff that really is post-modernist… and the stuff that is just plain old.

In short, the village (and Island for that matter) converges modern art with traditional Japan,


http://www.naoshima-is.co.jp/english/index.html

As I returned to the ferry, the sun was just beginning to set, and I couldn’t help but think that—though it is an unbearable cliché—nature tends to be the unrivaled artist.


On that very note, Joel and I set out to visit Naruto’s acclaimed whirlpools the following day, for the final leg of my trip:

“One of the greatest attractions of the Seto Inland Sea is the world's most powerful tidal current, swirling at a velocity of twenty kilometers per hour or higher. You can see giant whirlpools created by the ebb and flow of currents at Naruto Strait in Tokushima Prefecture. During spring and autumn in particular, vortexes can reach up to twenty meters in diameter, and are a sight worth seeing. When planning a visit to the area, you are recommended to time your trip to coincide with high or low tides, during which times the whirlpools are most clearly visible. Whilst waiting for the ebb or flow tides, a visit to the Onaruto Bridge Crossing Memorial Museum is also recommended. There you can enjoy a magnificent view of the whirlpools on a panorama screen.” (sorry, I don’t think I could have said it better than that!)”


Though we waited almost four hours for the peak tides to arrive, the whirlpools were by no means the 20 or so meters that others have been fortunate enough to capture. Still, we stared into the swirling water for a good two hours, completely mesmerized by the unpredictable torrents and sudden spirals. It was momentous enough to leave us wanting more, come spring, when they the whirlpools are said to be at their best.

And so, both literally and metaphorically, I completed my whirlwind trip of the great northern reaches of Shikoku and once again returned though the mountains to my humble mountain abode.

Little did I know that my adventures had only just begun (DAN DAN DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA…. cue thought-provoking and suspense inducing music).

Some Day my Prince Will Come...

Hypothetically speaking… if one were to lose ones shoes in downtown Kochi… where might they look for them??

This was the question I proposed to my coworkers Monday morning.

“How can you lose your shoes?” They asked, demanding the full story. I was mortified, but told them the following tale:

It was the night of the Chobitto Amateur Film Festival. The sun set over the western skies casting an eerie glow over Kochi city, portending the loss of shoes that was to come. I was called by the film festival coordinator, requesting that I be the official videographer of the evening. Flattered, how could I refuse? So I set off to Kochi City to capture my good friend Matt become transformed into a geisha.

As I was filming, a Japanese man turned to me and said "anata wa kimoni ga kini ite kureru..." or something to the effect. Flattered that he thought I would look beautiful in a kimono I could think of nothing to say, because it was the sort of ambiguous comment that also deserved a reserved silence. But his next comment was more clarifying. "We will put you in a kimono because you will look beautiful in it."

Well, what could I say? I was briskly swept away (kidnapped is more accurate) and two hours later arrived at the film festival... not me!

I was a bit traumatized and overwhelmed, but excited to spend the evening as someone other than me (ie. demur and refined). Thus it was that, in amongst running from the balcony camera to the side stage camera, I obediently played the part of puppet the rest of the night ("stand here" "move your arm… yes, yes, like that") and enjoyed (?) being generally objectified. It was amazing to see what people felt comfortable doing to and with me, dressed like that.

Well, after all the madness I still had to do my job as film and so a drink was due to me when all was said and done.

First, however, I was transported back to the kimono shop, stripped and left to my own devices, which turned out to be a sexy black dress and red heels (note: these are magic red heels. Every time I wear them wonderful times ensue)

My friend (wife) Aki and I then headed downtown to meet the Post-Oscar Party-goers. The events that ensued are hazy; not because I was inebriated (yet), but because there was such a whirlwind of activity and festivity that I was a bit dizzy having been lost in the midst of it. In the end we danced the night away and late in the night... no ... early the following morning we (Casey, Kalen, Nick and I) wandered the streets of Kochi in search of a shelter.

All I can say is that with three men aiding me, I should not have lost my precious magic red heels. And yet....

Alas... they are in limbo somewhere between my having a good time in them and waking up the next day feeling the effects of that good time...

Where have I heard this story before…?

… a far away kingdom..
… the night of a party…
… transformed into a … Japanese woman…
… lost shoes!

Oh! We all know what comes next!

It is all so apparent to me now! … The man of my dreams will present my red heels before me, sweep my on to his horse and ride off with me into the sunset…

Sigh…

And they lived happily ever after…